Fifteen years after the genocide that killed a million people, Rwanda's warring tribes have reached a truce. But will it hold? Here, the world's leading writer on Rwanda meets the killers, the survivors, and the man bringing them together

When I began visiting Rwanda, in 1995, a year after the genocide, the country was still pretty well annihilated: blood-sodden and pillaged, with bands of orphans roaming the hills and women who'd been raped squatting in the ruins, its humanity betrayed, its infrastructure trashed, its economy gutted, its government... 

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